How To Best Use Our Products
First off, big thanks for your interest in The Last Coat product line. We really do appreciate it, and can't wait to see some of the amazing results you get from our products. Below you will find various tutorials on how to apply some of our products, and best practices for prepping, where applicable. Although it's very easy to apply our products, a few pro-tips never hurt anyone. Simply select the product you want to learn about from the list below to jump to that section of this page:
First, Choose Your Product:
The Last Coat / AMP / Bare Slate Mitt
Before checking out the video below, keep in mind that some customers will simply not do any prep, and only wash/dry then apply. You can do this as well, but ideally use a very basic soap with no waxes or fillers if you go that route. But many of our customers like to start with a clean and bare surface using the steps below.
In this video tutorial, Nick goes through an in-depth prep of a surface that has a good amount of contamination on it and requires a two-step decontamination. First with a wash using The Last Soap and the PF-22 Foam Cannon (you could also use a wash bucket method). He then follows this up using the Bare Slate Clay Mitt for claying the surface and removing contamination. Next he uses a 70% IPA wipe down to make sure nothing is left on the surface, and finally applies TLC2, and then AMP. Apologies on the low volume of the audio in this one.
Keep in mind, Nick is utilizing our own products, however, if you have a non-wax/non-conditioner based soap for the initial wash that you like to use you may do so. Also, not every customer will clay the surface, some may only use the IPA wipe down. And some customers will simply just wash and apply but for best results we recommend applying on a clean and bare surface.
** Also, please note! Make sure to keep HIGH levels of lubrication at ALL times using the Bare Slate Clay Mitt, with light pressure, to avoid marring of the surface.**
GO2 Waterless Wash
The Last Coat GO2 Waterless Wash is the only Graphene + SiO2 Waterless Wash on the market today. It allows you to cut your detailing time dramatically, leaving you with a gorgeous slick and shiny finish. Check out the video below to learn more and to see how easy it is to apply:
Directions for Applying GO2 Waterless Wash:
Step 1: Spray an even amount of The Last Coat GO2 Waterless Wash directly onto the surface that is to be cleaned. Make sure the surface is well saturated with the formula so that dirt and dust particles are well lubricated and encapsulated. Ideally, apply when the surface is cool to the touch.
Step 2: Using a microfiber towel, wipe the dirt away. Ensure to wipe in one direction to lift the dirt from the surface.
Step 3: Using a second, dry microfiber towel, buff off any remaining residue or streaking. If you see any streaking, a light spray of The Last Coat GO2 Waterless Wash and final wipe/buff is advised. Alternatively, you can also use a water damp microfiber towel to remove any streaking and then dry with a dry towel.
Step 4: Continue steps 1-3 around your vehicle on all surfaces until complete.
Step 5: Enjoy (and show off) the mirror-like shine and slickness.
It's that simple and that easy.
We know you'll enjoy using The Last Coat GO2 Waterless Wash as much as we have in our own detailing practice.
The Last Soap
In this video, Nick shows how he likes to clean a vehicle using The Last Soap, followed by The Last Coat. He also mentions an optional step using our Bare Slate Clay Mitt. You'll be able to see how even after just washing, The Last Soap has made the surface a bit more hydrophobic. Nick utilizes the PF-22 foam cannon in the video, but The Last Soap can also be applied with a typical wash bucket setup.
With The Last Soap, always remember to SHAKE WELL before pouring The Last Soap into your foam cannon or wash bucket. This makes sure that the detox and the coating properties are blended even in your foam solution. Very important:
Deep Ice
Deep Ice is ideally applied on a paint corrected surface free of scratches and swirls. If you are starting with a true scratch free and swirl free surface, you can simply decontaminate the surface and strip any prior waxes or sealants similar to this TLC prep video.
Summary of Deep Ice Directions:
For best results, and to get the most durability and longevity, you would want a scratch and swirl-free surface (a paint correction) ideally. And also a surface that is entirely clean and stripped free of waxes, polishes, solvents, and sealants (including TLC). Here's what we recommend:
- Step 1: Wash your vehicle.
- Step 2: Decontaminate the paint surface with a clay mitt, clay bar or chemical removal.
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Step 3: Do this step only if paint requires it, if not move on to step four. Compound/polish (paint correction)the paint surface to remove swirls, defects and bring the surface to a high gloss.
In terms of what compound and polish to use, we like stuff that is professional-grade but still easy to use. The two that we use personally in-house that can be purchased easily are "The Last Cut" by TLD Detail NV (no affiliation, just similar names). It's a great compounding product that is easier to use than some other professional-grade products. Another that we use is Sonax Perfect FInish, it works well for gloss and minimal clear coat removal, just won't remove a lot of deep swirls as The Last Cut will. We do not recommend many of the lower end polishes that will leave behind residue and such that can be hard to remove via IPA, and thus affecting bonding to the surface and longevity. - Step 4: Wipe down the vehicle with 70% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on a microfiber and let the IPA air dry or use a surface prep cleaner. This will remove all waxes, polishing oils if used, and residue to ensure a clean surface.
- Step 5: Using a microfiber applicator, spray 2-5 sprays (depending on panel) of DEEP ICE directly onto the applicator and then wipe on to paint surfaces in a hashtag type pattern. Then take a CLEAN microfiber towel to buff off DEEP ICE to an extremely high gloss, slick finish. For larger vehicles use a new buffing microfiber towel halfway through to ensure full removal. Full removal is very important. Discard towels/applicator after use.
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Step 6: If additional layers are desired, wait 1 hour before applying the additional layer. Due to the minimal amounts used when applied, it is a great idea to do 2-3 layers of DEEP ICE.
IMPORTANT: Wait 24 hours before water contact and a full 7 days before washing with high-pressure water or soaps, or exposing to harsh chemicals. The full cure time is 7 days.
After 7 days TLC2 and/or AMP can be used to wipe down the vehicle after washing or to remove bird droppings, fingerprints, or to remove light dust. TLC2 will also add layers of protection on top of DEEP ICE and help preserve and rebuild it as well.
CeraTex
The Last Coat is proud to bring you CeraTex, our powerful ceramic-based textile and fabric protectant & stain repellent that can be used on all textile and cloth materials as well as carpets, leather, and more. Check out the video below to see just how easy it is to apply CeraTex to fabrics and textiles:
Summary of CeraTex Directions:
- Step 1: Thoroughly clean the fabric that you are applying CeraTex to. Using an APC (all purpose cleaner), degreaser, or extraction vacuum is highly recommended. The fabric/textile surface should be as clean as possible before applying CeraTex.
- Step 2: After thoroughly cleaning, ensure that the surfaces are fully dry to the touch before applying CeraTex.
- Step 3: Spray an even amount of CeraTex onto the surface. We recommend wearing gloves and massaging CeraTex into the fabric to get full absorption. You can also use a soft brush or microfiber towel, but for best hydrophobic effect we recommend using your hands while wearing gloves to rub CeraTex into the fabric. This is especially important on thicker more absorbent fabrics such as carpets.
- Step 4: For best hydrophobic effects, apply multiple layers, waiting 2 hours between applications. Typically, no more than 3 layers is required. After 3 layers, CeraTex can in fact begin to repel itself. You can often see this happening in the form of CeraTex beading itself, which means it can no longer be absorbed.
- Step 5: After all desired layers have been applied, ensure no liquid or water contact for ideally 48 hours after the last layer has been applied. After this cure time, the fabric should be dry to the touch and can be used normally.
CeraTrim
CeraTrim uses our popular and effective ceramic technology to bond deep into the pores of plastic trim surfaces, removing the impurities that have built up in the plastic and effectively restoring them to their original appearance. Check out the video below to learn more and to see how easy it is to apply and how much to use:
Directions for Applying CeraTrim:
Step 1: Plastics and rubbers need to be as clean as possible before applying CeraTrim. Any prior dressings should be removed. You do not want anything affecting the bonding of CeraTrim to the trim surface. You will want to use a basic vehicle soap (no wax-based soaps), but in addition, you will need to use a degreaser or all-purpose cleaner (APC) and a soft bristle brush to agitate down into the texture of the plastic or rubber.
Step 2: With high-pressure water, thoroughly rinse the area ensuring to get full removal of any soaps or detergents.
Step 3: If the plastic or rubber doesn't become fully clean and bare, repeat the process until you achieve the deepest clean possible.
Step 4: Thoroughly dry the plastic or rubber and then apply CeraTrim with the included applicator.
Step 5: Allow it to dwell for 5-20 minutes (depending on how faded the surface is).
Step 6: IMPORTANT - DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP - After the dwell period take a dry microfiber towel and buff the trim surface to remove excess residue that will be sitting on top. This is very important.
Please Note: Full cure time for CeraTrim is 24 hours. Do not let these surfaces get wet in the first 24 hours after application.
***Please note, applying CeraTrim can make surfaces very slick when wet, so when applying to running boards on your vehicle please keep this in mind as they may be quite slippery when wet.***
The Last Soap
In this video, Nick shows how he likes to clean a vehicle using The Last Soap, followed by The Last Coat. He also mentions an optional step using our Bare Slate Clay Mitt. You'll be able to see how even after just washing, The Last Soap has made the surface a bit more hydrophobic. Nick utilizes the PF-22 foam cannon in the video, but The Last Soap can also be applied with a typical wash bucket setup.
With The Last Soap, always remember to SHAKE WELL before pouring The Last Soap into your foam cannon or wash bucket. This makes sure that the detox and the coating properties are blended even in your foam solution. Very important:
Iron Off
***Important: DO NOT work with Iron Off in direct sunlight. Only work on a surface when it is cool to the touch. Do not use on raw aluminum. Also, keep in mind that Iron Off is strong, and it will degrade previously applied coatings to a degree. Even professionally installed ceramic coatings. So if you apply to paintwork or ceramic coated wheels, or surfaces that have been coated with any of our products, you will want to reapply those coatings after Iron Off has done its job.***
- First off know that Iron Off has a strong smell, so make sure to use it in a well-ventilated area. Then, shake the bottle very well then spray directly on to the surface. (Only do so in the shade when the wheel surface is cool to the touch). Spray directly on them when dirty. Pre-rinsing may dilute Iron Off when you spray it on the surface.
- Let Iron Off dwell on the surface for 2-5 minutes. As Iron Off goes to work on ferrous brake dust and contaminants, it will turn a purple/red color as it breaks down the iron to a water-soluble state for easy removal (do NOT let Iron Off dry on the wheels/surface).
- Rinse Clean with high-pressure water to remove all of Iron Off.
- If wheels were extremely contaminated with brake dust to start, a follow-up hand wash with soap and water on the wheels is recommended to remove any leftover Iron Off.
- Optional but recommended. Apply The Last Coat or Deep Ice to protect. Finish off with a layer of AMP if desired. If you had our coatings applied before using Iron Off, then you will definitely want to reapply to the treated areas as the coatings will degrade slightly.
** It is recommended to spot test Iron Off first before full application and use.
ClearSR
1) Wash the vehicle to remove surface dirt. We recommend washing with a basic soap that does not contain waxes or conditioners. You may use The Last Soap as well for this step.
2) Dry the area that has water spots.
3) Using ClearSR, wet a 1"-2" area on a microfiber towel and begin to rub on the area affected by water spots. As you rub, they will start to dissolve and disappear. Repeat until all water spots are removed.
4) Rinse the treated surface with high-pressure water to fully remove any ClearSR that remains on the surface.
5) If any ClearSR still remains after using a high-pressure rinse, then simply hand wash with soap and water to remove excess residue. You will typically be able to visually easily see if there is an excess on the surface. It will almost look "streaky". Simply wash to remove if any ClearSR still remains.
6) Once spots are removed feel free to apply The Last Coat, AMP, or Deep Ice to the surface if you desire. Make sure to do a 70% IPA wipedown before applying the coatings, per usual.
**It is recommended to spot test ClearSR first before full application and use.
