Frequently Asked Questions

This is one of our top questions. Let's just say other brands aren't too keen on us naming names. That said, we will do our best to differentiate ourselves. The Last Coat looks to accomplish what other sealants and protectants do, but in a very different way. For one, there is no oil in The Last Coat as there is in some of the most popular brands out there. This means there is no streaking and no residue. This also means no messy and oily bottles. In side-by-side tests which can be seen on Youtube vs. one particular popular brand, The Last Coat demonstrated superior water-repelling properties as well. The Last Coat is very different in that it is a nanotech mesh ceramic-based product, so it creates a protective "shell" of sorts via technology similar to a professionally installed 9H ceramic coating but not quite as hard, which is why it can be sprayed on, wiped off, etc.

The new upgraded version of The Last Coat is also the most durable and chemical resistant all in one product on the market today. It cures enough within 5-7 minutes to drive out into the elements right away and also take some chemical attacks. After 24 hours, it is extremely chemical resistant across a whole pH range of chemicals.

The Last Coat is a newer technology as well, it is a blend of ceramic particles and SiO2 along with some proprietary ingredients in a very tight mesh blend that allows it to bond to the surface tighter than any all in one, DIY product today.

From what we've seen, we are more affordable than most others as well when you factor in just how little is needed for full vehicle coverage.

Finally, we have a 365-day guarantee on all orders (gallons must still be sealed however for risk of contamination and dilution). No one in the industry offers a guarantee like that.

Yes, you can wash as you normally would if you like. You will find that you may not need to wash as frequently or with soap all the time, but if you want to then yes, of course, you can. DO NOT use "Wash and wax" soaps for prepping the surface, nor to clean the vehicle after applying TLC. If used before applying to prep the surface, TLC will not be able to bond correctly to the surface as it is a ceramic-based product, and you may experience streaking. If used after applying TLC, due to TLC being so hydrophobic, it will shed the wax because The Last Coat is the real protection, and the wax may haze. So in short, use a basic car soap with no waxes or polymers, or merely straight rinse with clean, fresh water. The exception would be "silica soap." Such as our own soap, The Last Soap. Otherwise we recommend pH neutral soaps. Finally, you'll find that a surface treated with The Last Coat will clean off easier with only water than an untreated surface.

You may have seen videos of The Last Coat being used on dirty surfaces. Well, The Last Coat can be used as a waterless wash in this manner. However, we do want to make a couple of distinctions. Typically for light dust and dirt, and water spots, it is fine to use The Last Coat without washing. However, it's important to use your judgment on what kind of dirt and how much is present. Small rocks and pebbles, not a good idea. Dust is typically fine. After you purchase, we will send out a series of videos that will show you the different applications for using The Last Coat. In the first video, we show you how to clean a dirty surface. The technique in doing so is crucial but easy. We'll show you how. Also, it is good practice for your first application to use it on a clean and cool surface if possible. Clay barring will get you best results but is not required. If you do clay bar, ideally try to find a clay bar lubricant that has little to no wax in it. Anytime you clay bar you would follow up the same day with protection such as The Last Coat within in hours after completing. Either way, having a really clean surface allows The Last Coat to bond better to the surface, and make future cleanings much easier.

On the average sized vehicle, you should be able to get 7-8 full exterior applications out of it. Now, of course, some people use more, and some people use less. Some like to use a couple applications within the first 24 hours to build an even stronger protective "shell." That's your choice of course. The Last Coat also works on interior surfaces as well as household appliances and electronics, so your mileage may vary when you see just how versatile it is! Most average car exteriors don't need more than 1-3 ounces for a full application. Spraying onto the towel first and applying that way will conserve the amount you use.

For The Last Soap, typically you would use 1-3 ounces for best results. This typically depends on how much foam you like to use in your wash, and how thick of a washing solution you like to work with. Our bottles of The Last Soap are 32 ounces, so each bottle will give you between 10-30 washes.

The Last Coat's effects in shine, protection, and hydrophobic properties will last for up to 6 months under normal driving conditions. Within this time, The Last Coat will help make cleaning faster and easier as dirt and grime won't get embedded as much as if the surface were unprotected.

Currently all shipments are being fulfilled within 24-36 hours, and customers typically receive their order within 3-5 business days in the United States.

Yes! Absolutely. Plastic trim, door panels, dashboards, no problem. One thing to keep in mind. On matte surfaces such as dashboards, The Last Coat will leave a protected and enhanced matte finish. It will not artificially shine and glare a dashboard. This is because there is no oil or silicone in The Last Coat. For glass and windows, The Last Coat works excellent, but we recommend that the glass be cool and not hot or under the sun, and your microfiber should not be saturated when it's time to work on the glass. This helps avoid any hazing, which is rare. For rims, no problem. On metallic/silver rims, The Last Coat™ will make them shine bright and protect them. On powder coat matte rims, The Last Coat will have a matte finish. On tire treads, The Last Coat will also have a matte finish since there is no oil or silicone in it. On all surfaces, even textiles, leather and fabric, The Last Coat will build a hydrophobic, water repelling layer.

Definitely. As with all matte surfaces, satin finishes, and denim paint, The Last Coat will not alter the look of denim paint. The Last Coat contains no silicones or oils, or no artificial shining agents, so it won't change the appearance of your beloved denim surfaces!

The Last Coat can work on light water spots. Just spray, wipe, and buff to a shine per the directions. However, if you have very stuck on and hard mineral spots, and The Last Coat is not able to remove them, then it's advised to use a specific water spot dissolving solution first to remove them, such as Ducky's Acid Gel. Or manual removal with a DA buffer, and then apply The Last Coat for future protection which can help prevent excessive water spots in the future. Important note: if you have applied The Last Coat, and then your vehicle gets hit with dirty water whether from acidic rain or sprinkles and then you see water spots afterward. Keep in mind that these spots are in the sacrificial layer of the The Last Coat, not on the clear coat itself. This video explains a very quick and easy fix for this that is a detailers trick: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogusO7WlP88

Applied correctly, The Last Coat will leave no streaking or residue at all. Reports of this happening are very rare. Typically if an issue like this arises, it's due to either too much product being used, not buffing correctly, or applying on a very hot surface. Again, there is an easy fix for this, check out this video if you encounter this rare problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xsewd7kRHbw

Yes, it can. When applying in direct sunlight, we recommend working in 2 foot by 2-foot areas. Spray, spread, polish and completely buff to shine in this area before moving on. With regards to glass, chrome, and stainless steel we recommend not applying The Last Coat if these surfaces are hot as this can sometimes lead to hazing. Best to apply on glass when it is cooled down.

Yes, it does. However, if the surface has already existing sun damage or oxidation, The Last Coat cannot reverse that damage. Some customers have seen results for reversing that type of damage but it is not a claim we make. It will help protect from future issues, however.

The Last Coat will help fill in fine scratches and swirls to a degree and will help reduce the appearance and mask them. It will not have the same effect on deep surface scratches and swirls that a real paint correction would. No spray on product can claim to do that with deep scratches, and if they do claim that, run!

The Last Coat is used by thousands of motorcycle enthusiasts, and it absolutely works to bring out amazing shine to chrome surfaces. There is no issue with hazing in regards to chrome. Works great on motorcycle helmet visors as well for protection and easy removal of bugs and debris.

Yes. The Last Coat can be applied on all fiberglass and marine surfaces, gelcoat etc. The Last Coat will help prevent future oxidation and water spots when used correctly as well. You can use it on all of your boat and RV interior surfaces too!

Yes, The Last Coat will remove bugs and bee pollen. If it's very stuck on it may take a couple applications. Where The Last Coat really shines (no pun intended) is when you have applied it when the surface is clean, it will build up a protective layer which will make future bug and pollen cleaning much easier! If you have not yet applied The Last Coat, it is recommended to remove bug and pollen before applying, and doing first application on as clean and bare a surface as possible. We have done chemical tests with the new upgraded version of The Last Coat, and bug/tar remover did not impact the coating.

Yes it/you can, but it is not the best way to get the very best results with The Last Coat, since The Last Coat (TLC2) is a ceramic based product. We do however always recommend applying on as clean and BARE of a surface as possible on first application. So stripping previous waxes and sealants is recommended.

Yes absolutely. Keep in mind though that for cars that have been ceramic coated, you can use even less TLC. An average sized car takes 1-3 ounces for the exterior if it's not ceramic coated, so that gives you an idea of how little you need to use on a ceramic car. Ceramic and TLC share many of the same chemical properties so TLC will help rebuild and protect ceramic over time. Our new upgraded version of The Last Coat has a ceramic base.

Yes! We sell gallon bottles of The Last Coat, and they are a very popular option in our store. Easily the most affordable way to purchase The Last Coat ounce for ounce. Some customers team up with a friend or relative and order the gallons. Click on "products" in our menu to see our lineup.

Yes, The Last Coat is perfect for vinyl wraps, paint protection films (clear bra). We recommend to always take care to do vinyl and PPF's in the shade when the surface is cool to the touch.

The Last Coat is non-flammable, so you're good there. However, when storing below 32°F/0°C, it may freeze. In other words, not advised to store outside during freezing temperatures.

We recommend the temperature being above 40 degrees when applying The Last Coat. One thing of note is when the temperature is colder, The Last Coat will take a little longer to bond. Typicalcuring time takes 5-7 minutes. In colder temperatures you would be looking at closer to 10-12 minutes.

Our new, upgraded version of The Last Coat is intentionally made very durable from chemicals, for maximum longevity and durability. The best way to completely remove The Last Coat is polishing with a DA buffer or similar, with a medium grade foam polishing pad and a light compound/polish.

As for coating anything that you will be drinking from or eating off of, we don't recommend it. Also, don't strongly inhale the mist and don't drink it. It can cause a mild skin irritation in some people, but the reports on this are very, very rare.

Regarding using a clay bar for prepping the surface, this is a personal preference, and it's up to the customer on how comfortable they are in their skill level for clay barring. Improper clay bar use can induce problems that The Last Coat would not be able to solve. Anytime you clay bar you would follow up the same day with protection such as The Last Coat within in hours after completing. Ideally, you wash the vehicle rinse it off then start the clay barring process using a clay lube to ensure you are not dragging clay across the dry paint. Ideally try to use a clay lube that contains little to no waxes for best results with TLC. You can use The Last Soap diluted as your clay lubricant. Then once you have clay barred all the paint, you rinse again and dry or wipe clean with a few microfibers. Finally after all that you would then apply The Last Coat. Proper clay barring as the initial prep step will often give you the very best results out of TLC. Now, regarding using The Last Coat as a base lubricant, DO NOT use it as a clay lube! The Last Coat would be used as a follow-up step for protection after claying, or any paint correction work that is done mechanically or by hand.